Cape Raoul

Awaking to another stella day but with one difference... no wind! We chowed down on some muesli and had a quick brew. Rope fixed in place and knowing the walk we were at the base of the wedding cake and the first approach route Rain of Terror pretty cruisy trad 18, we fired up that then climbed Jihad to gain the top of the wedding cake. Traversing the wedding cake looking back on the cape a sense of isolation and seriousness of the position came over me. Exciting! We quickly found the rap anchors and descended down the other side of the wedding cake, following the obvious errosion of a climbers track we quickly regained the rock. It took us some time to find the correct line but finally did and were scrambling along the ridge again on the Stegasaraus pitch a kind of double finned ridge of rock like a Stegasauras' back. Once on the other side of this a short traverse got us to a notch above the seal colony and looking up at the pillars. I led up the chimney pitch to a bolted belay on a massive chockstone and staired up at the impressive line of Pole Dancer 22. Kez followed and leaning up looking at the arete above told me she was getting the first go at it. Handing over the draws Kerryn grappled with the arete, it may be a bolted route but the position and the exposure, seals grunting below, wind tearing at your clothes and the ocean smashing into the buttress a hundred metres below doesn't mean Pole Dancer is a sport route. Kez put in energy and fight to the climb but came off about half ay up with a screaming pump. I lowered her to the belay and Kez said it was my go, so I pulled the rope and started on the line. Nearly blowing off at the start, I pulled it together and found my flow and really enjoyed the rest of the route. After doing the route and coming back down Kez got pysched for another go but fell of in the same place, pulled on again and climbed the rest of the route. After some peanut butter sarnies and listening to seal banter I started up Certified Wise 23 tricky from the ground Certified Wise is one of the best lines I've ever climbed, thoughtful and engaging climbing leading from one unique feature to another. This route has so much soul that motown records is jealous, big props to the guys who went out there and put in the time to bolt this line. A real piece of climbing its 10 bolts in 35 metres mean its protected but exciting
Kez and I topped out on the pinnacle ending one of the coolest days climbing we've had well not really ending the day we still had; a 25m rap, 15m rap some 100m or so of roped scrambeling about the same unroped, 30m grade 16 chimney pitch then 50m traverse to two 30m abseils half hour walk back to the decsent gulley and 30m of rope to ascend there, thankfully our tent lay some 50m from here!

Cape Raoul Seals

Seal Colony


You can smell these suckers before you see 'em.

Day one Cape Raoul

A frustrating first day, packing our bags at the Cape Raoul walking trail I realized I had left my chalk bag behind. Not much to be done about that Off we went. A beautiful walk into the cape, we got pretty excited about been out there. We started the mission along the Cape Raoul actual the sun was out things were happening. Getting to the first rappel I abseiled down... The rope we had borrowed wasn't long enough! Not wanting to prussic all the way back up I came up with a plan; Kez raps down to me we tie into opposing ends and I climb up till she reaches the ground (about 5m away) then I realign the ropes rap down to the ledge we were on and down climb the last few meters to the ground. Sorted! Ba-bow... The rope wouldn't budge it was stuck, we tried for ages nada, so up I went after all. Once at the top I could sort the rope so Kez could get down then I pulled it up and found a different descent. Alex and Simon had joined us by now. We began the first pitch up the wedding cake but soon decided it was way too windy to safely continue so we bailed. After pitching camp and a short snooze Kez and I went in search of new lines inspired by some of what we had seen earlier on the approach. Sadly we didn't have the required cams for the lines and pulled the pin, after scrambling out the gully I went to put my sunnies on and they weren't in my pocket! So the day was a complete fail. Well except I found a free standing pillar Cape Raoul is famous for that will go on natural gear! Days like today have to serve some purpose, been physically fit and mentally pysched but not getting a chance at your goals can be pretty frustrating. I guess for me I try to learn patience, and know that failures can only serve to sweeten the success when it finally comes. I mean it could be worse than hanging out with someone you love in a national park on the Tasman Penisula.

Almost a weekend warrior

After a half days work with some friends wanting to brush up on rescue skills today before they head into Federation Peak, then packing the truck to bail down the Tasman Penisula I almost feel like a weekend warrior!
Really excited to head out to Cape Raoul for the weekend with Kerryn, Simon, Alex, CJ and Merry should be some good times. Wicked mission out there and new routes and sick established lines with good weather predicted its on!!

Rainy haze and training days

Returning to Hobart on Mon arvo as the weather crapped out for a week! Tues was a rest day after a solid Mon morn trying Stan this viscious 28? finger crack. Wed I picked up Kerryn from Hobart International and we hit up Jed's shed for a fingerboard session followed by burritos at Becs house. Today we went to Alex's and hit up his woodie for a training day.

Alex lives 500m from the Cascade brewery so our session was brilliantly capped off with an ice cold 'First Harvest Lager' straight from the brewery. Weather is improving on the weekend so getting pumped for another mission somewhere in Tas.

Analysis of lead one fall

Having friends around to video our climbing attempts on AI gave me a unique opportunity to analyse post climb exactly why I fell off. After lowering to the ground, and cleaning the route I watched the movie. It was the perfect tool. I hadn't fallen off at this point on top rope, so I wasn't sure what had led to falling off. After watching the video you can see my left foot slips off the foot hold and I then peel off. With this knowledge I realised as I was nervous, having done all the 'hard' climbing and was very timid at the top. As I was timid and a little shaky I didn't commit fully to the footer which was slopey, this meant the I didn't create enough friction on the hold and slipped off resulting in falling. It's funny how you can spend so much time focusing on crux moves and tricky sequences only to fail on 'easy' climbing without really knowing why. So after all this; with the knowledge I could do the crux solidly gear in hand, knowing why I pinged off later on I got on for my second lead attempt and sent.

AIDs film

This is the video of my ascent of Animal Instincts Direct, first little bit is me falling off the top on my fist lead go... then sending. Thanks to Kerryn especially and CJ n Merry also for the pysch and drive on the day.

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Animal Instincts Direct repeat

After the early start and knocking on Crazy Johns door while he was still eating breakfast. Then picking up Merry who was dossing in Jeds shed, we made our way to Freycinet. Arriving late arvo conditions looked sweet so pysched up the three of us went down to AI, I was stoked to smash it for the top rope warm up and after Merry and CJ had a play I tied into the sharp end. Feeling strong I pulled the crux and made way up the wall only to fall near the top! Ah well the others TRed the route again and I chilled then got amped up again and went for the send and did the route. Not to be left out CJ tied in, then climbed the line which prompted Merry to give it a lead attempt too... In twilight (pretty much dark) conditions Merry tried the route but fell low down and we bailed for the night all very happy.

Best climbing partner departs

Another super early start, so Kez could catch a flight to Sydney to be with family. Love and thoughts are with you guys. Gonna hit the road and go find some bonehead climbing partners down in Hobart. Looking forward to Kerryn coming back.

Launcestion R&R

This morning was an early one so Kerryn could make an interview with Launceston General Hospital. While Kez was hard at it I found the Launceston Rec centre and hit up the pool for some recovery work! Slow lane breaststroke laps followed by light stretching in the heated pool then back into the cold for a few more laps till I was cold enough to indulge in some spa action, I kept at this till my fingers looked too wrinkly and it was time for a shower and to lax in a cafe!

TR sessions and a little trad onsighting

Arriving late Sun at Whitewater wall Kerryn and I went straight to AID and built a TR, had a burn and felt okay then decided to start workin on the gear. Earlier this year I was stoked to do Brown Corduroy Trousers at Frog Buttress, I worked the route ground up but ended up doing it with the gear in-situ I felt I could do it placing on lead but wanted to spend time doing other things. Leading Animal Instincts placing gear is gonna be tough the climbing is okay to half height and good gear to just below that, then things get exciting the climbing becomes strenuous, the gear small and fiddly. I've decided to do the route using double ropes to minimise slack in the system while clipping as if you blow some of the upper clips some pretty big falls are gonna happen. Simon came over after a days guiding and chucked some beta my way I tried it and it felt pretty good but after another session the next morning I think I will stick with my sequence.
Early start on Monday morning took us back to Light Fingered Madison buttress and AID, a quick warm up and I was practising leading the route with the safety of the TR, the double ropes will work well and I'm pretty confident to have a go on the sharp end soon. After our morning we headed back to camp and had a snooze then hit up Little Blue-stone Bay nice climbing on Alchemy wall Kez led Blue-eyed and Blonde but fell off the crux and I fell off below the crux seconding (we both blamed bad conditions!) I then led Alchemy onsight and found the route challenging but Kez cruised up it second. After this Kerryn and I were spent and really needed a rest day!