Arriving late Sun at Whitewater wall Kerryn and I went straight to AID and built a TR, had a burn and felt okay then decided to start workin on the gear. Earlier this year I was stoked to do Brown Corduroy Trousers at Frog Buttress, I worked the route ground up but ended up doing it with the gear in-situ I felt I could do it placing on lead but wanted to spend time doing other things. Leading Animal Instincts placing gear is gonna be tough the climbing is okay to half height and good gear to just below that, then things get exciting the climbing becomes strenuous, the gear small and fiddly. I've decided to do the route using double ropes to minimise slack in the system while clipping as if you blow some of the upper clips some pretty big falls are gonna happen. Simon came over after a days guiding and chucked some beta my way I tried it and it felt pretty good but after another session the next morning I think I will stick with my sequence.
Early start on Monday morning took us back to Light Fingered Madison buttress and AID, a quick warm up and I was practising leading the route with the safety of the TR, the double ropes will work well and I'm pretty confident to have a go on the sharp end soon. After our morning we headed back to camp and had a snooze then hit up Little Blue-stone Bay nice climbing on Alchemy wall Kez led Blue-eyed and Blonde but fell off the crux and I fell off below the crux seconding (we both blamed bad conditions!) I then led Alchemy onsight and found the route challenging but Kez cruised up it second. After this Kerryn and I were spent and really needed a rest day!
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