Monday, January 10, 2011

Analysis of lead one fall

Having friends around to video our climbing attempts on AI gave me a unique opportunity to analyse post climb exactly why I fell off. After lowering to the ground, and cleaning the route I watched the movie. It was the perfect tool. I hadn't fallen off at this point on top rope, so I wasn't sure what had led to falling off. After watching the video you can see my left foot slips off the foot hold and I then peel off. With this knowledge I realised as I was nervous, having done all the 'hard' climbing and was very timid at the top. As I was timid and a little shaky I didn't commit fully to the footer which was slopey, this meant the I didn't create enough friction on the hold and slipped off resulting in falling. It's funny how you can spend so much time focusing on crux moves and tricky sequences only to fail on 'easy' climbing without really knowing why. So after all this; with the knowledge I could do the crux solidly gear in hand, knowing why I pinged off later on I got on for my second lead attempt and sent.

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